Monday, March 1, 2010

Ma Pêche, Je t'adore


It's only fitting, I believe, that my first post in an extended time be a tribute to the new Momofuku branch's impending opening. I know I said Ippudo's pork buns are better (and I think they are..), but David Chang really owns my heart.

Today I stopped by the Chambers Hotel to check out the limited menu in the lounge of Ma Pêche ("my peach"), the new French-inspired Momofuku sibling opening soon in Midtown. It promises to be a much larger, and slightly more formal setting than the first three restaurants, but the food remains the same delicious, unpretentious, knuckles-in-the-head-cheese Asian street food that made Chang a star in this city.

Two kinds of Bahn Mi are already on the menu, and an enticing chicken soup. I sampled the crispy brussels sprouts with fish sauce, mint, and cilantro. Oh, heavens. It's hard to go wrong with fried brussels sprouts, but the addition of umami-laden fish sauce, scallions, tiny chili slices, and a slight broth that had a sweet and floral aroma like lemongrass really made the dish outstanding. The slight heat of the chilis was absolutely perfect, and the dish paired fantastically with their spiced sake martini. The togarashi-infused honjozo sake with yuzu and lime was also slightly spicy, and its citrus elements paired perfectly with the earthy brussels sprouts dish.

This was just a little snack, but I'll be going back for more when they open the main dining room... If I can wait that long.